Join our community of smart investors

FTSE 350: Suffering for fashion

The handful of clothing retailers that remain on the FTSE 350 after years of falling footfall and the online shopping boom, ended 2021 on a high note. Sales and shares were up across the board as the high street staged a minor comeback.
April 28, 2022

The prices of food and fuel are rising at their fastest rate in decades while wages struggle to keep up, meaning that customers are soon to start reining in their spending on non-essentials. Clothing is no exception. A recent survey from Jefferies found that 36 per cent of consumers are planning to cut back on clothing purchases this year, with a quarter saying they will spend less on clothes than they did before the pandemic. Although this hasn’t started to show yet, with clothing sales up a decent 13.2 per cent in February according to the Office for National Statistics, fashion brands are conscious that this is the calm before the storm.

Inflation is also affecting retailers’ supply chains. Most clothing sold in the UK is imported from factories in Asia, and shipping has become up to five times more expensive in the past year, not helped by the Ukraine war’s effect on fuel prices and gridlock at the world’s busiest port in Shanghai. 

Although some are optimistically predicting that the return of major social occasions such as weddings and holidays will drive higher sales, retailers think this won’t be enough to outweigh higher costs. Next (NXT) has cut profit expectations for the year, and said it will pass on extra costs with an average of 8 per cent price hikes across its lines in the second half of 2022, partly as a result of the “chronic labour shortages” it has faced since Brexit. 

Likewise, Dr Martens (DOCS) plans to add £10 to the price tag of its famous boots due to higher raw materials and transport costs. A move away from wholesaling and into direct-to-consumer sales is expected to yield higher profits, but the theory will be put to the test as customers face tougher budgeting choices.

Frasers (FRAS) is taking a different tack. Mike Ashley’s retail outfit has been investing in the luxury end of its business with its Flannels brand, as well as upping its stake in German suit maker Hugo Boss. High-end shoppers usually see the smallest squeeze on their incomes, making the stock potentially more defensive than it’s generally credited to be. This could likewise be a boon for Burberry (BRBY), if it can maintain its profit margins above 17 per cent at a time when rivals are squeezed on all sides. It has already seen fit to reinstate the dividend and announce a £150mn share buyback, but with zero-Covid policies locking down parts of mainland China, this may prove to have been premature.

 

NAMEPrice (p)Market cap (£mn)12-month (%)Fwd PEYield (%)Last IC View
Burberry Group1,6726,631-19.0%173.0Hold, 1,846p, 11 Nov 2021
Dr Martens2442,445-48.0%151.8Hold, 394p, 09 Dec 2021
Frasers Group7013,43039.0%130.0Buy, 736p, 10 Dec 2021
JD Sports Fashion1477,595-18.0%120.5Buy, 215p, 12 Jan 2022
Next6,3588,350-20.0%113.5Buy, 6,182p, 24 Mar 2022
Source: FactSet